Fashion Design Review

PARIS — Fashion bosses from Paris, Milan, New York and London have agreed to take part in a debate on how to address eating disorders after some countries took measures to ban ultra-skinny models from their catwalks, according to French fashion’s governing body.

“It is a serious problem to which one cannot be insensitive,” the Chambre Syndicale said in a statement. “All the bodies concerned have to participate in terms of information.”

Leaders from the Chambre Syndicale, Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council met this week on the sidelines of Paris couture week to discuss their 2008 calendar and the health debate.

They agreed to take part in a debate on the delicate issue, the statement said, without elaborating.

Nothing further was decided at the Wednesday gathering, but the head of the French body said he was against adding fresh regulations in the wake of similar moves by Madrid and Milan.

“We must inform people, but above all not regulate the sector more than it already is,” said Didier Grumbach. “Regulation is something that weighs down the atmosphere.”

He noted that strict guidelines were introduced in the 1980s to regulate French modeling agencies. They included mandatory medical visits for models under 16.

“Therefore, there is no need for us to regulate the sector, and we thought it was normal for others to do so because they hadn’t done it in the past,” Grumbach said.

Organizers of fashion shows in London and New York have similarly stopped short of introducing a ban on overly thin models, but they are launching consultations with designers aimed at encouraging the use of healthy-looking girls.

The debate over waiflike models has intensified in the past year as many models and celebrities appear increasingly thin.

In September, Madrid’s Fashion Week announced it was banning models with a Body Mass Index, or height-to-weight ratio, below 18. A 5-foot-9 model weighing 125 pounds would have a BMI of 18. Milan’s fashion week also tightened its restrictions on underweight models.

The issue was back in the headlines in November, when 21-year-old Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston died of causes linked to the eating disorder anorexia nervosa.

France’s Chambre Syndicale said in its statement it had agreed to participate in a working group organized by the Health Ministry. Grumbach had initially said the debate on eating disorders did not concern the fashion industry and it did not plan to take part.

By Joelle Diderich
The Associated Press

If you are interested in breaking into the field of fashion, or you have some ideas that are truly ground breaking, you will want to attend one of the many fashion merchandising colleges that are available to teach you what you need to know about fashion. After you have attended a fashion merchandising college, you will be able to show your ideas that you have put together to the major corporations and stores so they will be more willing to pick up your line of clothing. You will also learn about how trends come and go in the world of fashion, and you will be more likely to pick up on the latest trend and, in doing so, make a name for yourself around the world.

Anyone who has tried to make it in the world of fashion will tell you how important it is that you expand your education at one of the fashion merchandising colleges in the country or abroad. You will learn why some clothing is made the way it is, and you may be able to pick up an idea and improve on it. You will learn about colors and why some work best with certain others while some do not. You will be able to put your creativity to the test, and you will be able to sew together anything you can think of.

When you are attending classes at fashion merchandising colleges, you will also be making contacts and putting together a portfolio of people you will be able to rely on in the future. You may meet a potential employer while you are studying fashion, or you could even meet a talented person that you would one day hire to work for you. You will also have a large group of critics that you could daily model your ideas for. If you have come up with an idea while at home, you can wear it to class and get ideas and critiques to make it better.

You will find that attending one of the fashion merchandising colleges will teach you more than just sewing. You will be more confident in your ability to create new styles, and you will have the confidence it takes to break into the world of fashion.

Source: kok swee onn  articlealley.com

Many fashion designers specialize in a certain type of clothing or accessory like men’s or women’s wear, children’s apparel, swimwear, lingerie, handbags, or shoes. Most fashion houses offer a range of positions from entry-level to working alongside top designers. Moves up tend to be fairly rapid,and employees don’t usually work at any one task for more than a couple of years.

• Head designers or design directors are responsible for executive and creative functions. They supervise design-room staff, and most have several assistants.
• Assistant designers are all-around assistants to designers. They make first patterns and samples, supervise sample makers, assemble presentation boards, gather fabric swatches, maintain libraries, and assist with a variety of technical and creative problems.
• Specialty designers work with other designers to coordinate special lines of clothing, such as sweaters.
• Theatrical costume designers create designs for film, stage, and TV.
• Trend researchers help designers identify new trends by doing market research and studies and talking with potential buyers.
• Artists and sketchers draw designs.
• Spec and Fit Technicians work on creating final production samples of the correct size and fit.
• Patternmakers work with designers to create the patterns that will be used to manufacture clothes.
• Pattern graders adjust pattern pieces to allow for changes from small to larger sizes.

Clothing patternmakers make full-size paper or fiberboard patterns for clothing. Patternmakers translate the designer’s sketches into its various pattern pieces.  These workers need to have knowledge of body proportions and a familiarity of fabric to do this job. 

Pattern makers are very important to designers and fashion houses, as they act as liaisons between designers and manufacturers.  Styles today are more complicated and pattern makers are even more essential to the success of a design. There should be opportunities for talented people who choose to focus in this area, as the numbers of persons entering this trade has declined. 

To become a patternmaker, you need to have a certificate from a vocational or technical school. Advanced technical skills are necessary as are the ability to use drafting tools (calipers, squares, straight and curved rules), and good computer skills  - specifically with CAD programs. You will need to have the ability to visualize the finished design, and good communication skills as well.  Salaries in this field range from $11,000 – $150,000 annually

You might have seen them while watching TV shows such as Extreme Makeover, Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, or What Not to Wear. Or you might have heard that Martha Stewart needed them to give her advice on how to look sympathetic to a jury.

We’re talking about Image Consultants, and they have one of the hottest new businesses today.

Also known by such titles as wardrobe consultant, fashion stylist, or makeover consultant, image consultants are paid to show people how to create a fabulous impression. They might recommend wearing different colors or new styles, go through closets to toss out clothing that isn’t working, shop for a new wardrobe, and put together incredible outfits. They might advise a change of hairstyle, makeup, or grooming.

However, image is more than physical appearance. In addition to how someone looks, we also form impressions based on how someone talks and behaves. So image consultants may also advise people on their vocal communication (voice, grammar, vocabulary, etc.), non-verbal communication (handshakes, posture, eye contact, etc.) and etiquette – from dining to cell phones.

Most image consultants also develop a network of strategic partners they can refer clients to, such as hair stylists, makeup artists, nutritionists, dentists, personal trainers, plastic surgeons, and voice coaches.

Image consultants offer the kind of advice that can help people land a job, get a promotion, find someone to love, or just feel good about themselves.

It’s no wonder they are so well rewarded, typically earning at least $50 per hour advising individuals how to present a better image. A particularly lucrative avenue is presenting training programs for corporations. Image consultants can earn thousands of dollars a day teaching seminars on dressing professionally (including dos and don’ts for casual Fridays), telephone etiquette for customer service staff, communication skills for new supervisors, and other topics.

TIP: If you are one of the rare few who think image doesn’t matter, try shopping at a fine store dressed in what you would normally wear to clean your basement or move furniture. Then visit the same store looking well-groomed and wearing your best suit. Chances are the staff will treat you quite differently!

The first step to becoming an image consultant is to decide what kind of services you want to offer. You could specialize in wardrobe or fashion consulting, offer advice on communication skills and etiquette, or be a makeover consultant who gives feedback on “the whole package.”

The next step is to get some experience. While there are a variety of books and training programs you can use to quickly learn the basics, nothing beats hands on experience. Offer free makeovers for friends and family members who will agree to let you take “before and after” photos. You can then put the photos in a portfolio or on a web site to help you get paying clients.

There are many types of clients who use the services of image consultants, including: women who want a new look, job-seekers, corporate executives and their spouses, beauty pageant contestants, lawyers and their clients, cancer survivors, television personalities, transgender individuals, politicians, and singles seeking a partner.

“It is a great time to get into the field,” says celebrity image consultant Gloria Starr. A 20 year industry veteran who has helped shape the image of clients such as Destiny’s Child, 3M, and Celebrity Cruise Lines, she shares expert advice on how to get started in the FabJob.com Guide to Becoming an Image Consultant.

“This is the busiest time in my 20-plus years. People are looking for the edge in business,” says Starr. “Presenting themselves for success by dressing well and using appropriate business and dining skills opens the doors for greater recognition and success.”

Ever thought of becomeing a costume designer? – Here is an overview of what costume designers actually do.

Costume designers dress the actors and the extras in appropriate clothing for various productions, including plays, dance productions, operas, television shows, commercials, music videos and concerts. Wherever the clothing worn by the players needs to project a certain mood, era, or cultural influence, costume designers have a hand in the project.

Each production will require different kinds of attention. In theater, film, and television, the designer meets with the director, reads the script and develops a plan for each scene in the production. Once they have met with the art director, set designer, and lighting designer, the costume designer can then set about creating sketches of the way each outfit should look. Some are involved in creating futuristic clothing, while others recreate historical events. These outfits require a lot of research, and may need to be handmade. However, if the story or show is set in more recent times, the costume designer might have to do more hunting through second hand shops and flea markets than stitching up bodices. However, even selecting clothes for movies set in 1974 involves a lot of research. Not just any second-hand browsing will do. No matter what era they are exploring, costume designers need to pay attention to details, right down to the type of fabric used by pioneering women in Nebraska, what sort of hairpieces accentuated the Beehive and what would be appropriate underwear for Renaissance nobility.

Costume designers work closely with the production’s directors, producers, and actors. They know when they are creating looks for the production to stay within specific budgets, and must measure the performers before the outfits can be selected. They often work with assistants when developing a costume scheme for a production.

Costume designers usually specialize in one type of area. Some enjoy the drama of a life in theater, while others prefer working with television crews on commercials and other advertising initiatives. No matter where they apply their skills, however, all designers are able to strike a balance between creativity and practicality. They know how to recreate moods, eras and entire universes because of their innovative approach to fashion and design.

Have you thought of becoming a Personal Stylist?  This job is also often referred to as Wardrobe Consultant and Personal Shopper.

Personal stylists work with individuals, groups, classes or companies to educate clients about general fashion apparel and accessories. Consultants make an evaluation of their clients’ physical attributes, lifestyle, and fashion style in order to make recommendations on which fashion choices will help the client achieve and maintain their desired image. Personal stylists may often shop for their clients and pick out items that suit the image.

Aspiring stylists need to first get some experience in fashion retail positions. With enough experience, personal shoppers and merchandise buyers can gain credentials to work as independent consultants. Personal stylists may give classes for small groups or run seminars for a client company. Some lucky stylists work exclusively with high-profile celebrities in the sports and entertainment industries where a client’s everyday look or image is often more important than how they look while they work.

While no specific education is required, a college degree in Fashion Design or Fashion Merchandising is very helpful, as are business management courses.

Previous experience in a fashion-related field is key to a career in this position.  Characteristics that are important to this job are an excellent sense of fashion, sharp communication and listening skills, knowledge of fashion trends and forecasts, and the ability to promote oneself.  You will also need to be tactful and friendly and provide great presentations.  In this field, you can expect to earn a salary in range from $10/hr.to $40,000+.

I suffer from a condition called hyperacute hearing. This means that if sounds are of moderate or even soft volume, they can seem quite vivid and loud to me.

The Swedish clothing company H&M opened its New York flagship on Fifth Avenue in 2000, and that block has never been the same since. It’s loud. Inside the store, it is so loud that I have brought earplugs on several of my visits over the last year (although it’s still not as loud as its neighbor up the street, Abercrombie & Fitch).

My most recent visit took place on a triple-play day for noise and crowd levels. First of all, it was a sunny Saturday afternoon. Second, there was actually a street fair, souvlaki stands and all, right next to H&M, with the attendant police barricades, bleating sirens and screaming mothers. Third, we are now close enough to the holidays that I can just begin to hear the distant rumble of consumer panic. I brought the earplugs.

I have never seen the store as crowded as it was that day. Though H&M keeps its prices at the rock bottom of the American scale, they have paired up with major designers in recent years, and this lures shoppers like ants to a picnic. In Europe, H&M last year sold a line inspired by Madonna. In the United States, it has paired with Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and now Viktor & Rolf.

Those collections have never struck me as very interesting. Each enterprise is a way of generating publicity and getting shoppers into the store. I didn’t think the Lagerfeld stuff was so fascinating, nor the McCartney, and by the time I got to Viktor & Rolf that Saturday afternoon, a friendly but tired group of tourists from Ireland (County Sligo) was roosting like pigeons on the leather seats at the front of the store, and most of the Viktor & Rolf designs were sold out. I took out my earplugs long enough to talk to the teenager of the group, who was very proud of her Viktor & Rolf purchase: an angora sweater with a bow at the neck.

I had seen the catalog for the 44-piece line, and the art-house surrealism often associated with Viktor & Rolf had been toned down. By my arrival, the trench coat with the heart buckle was sold out, as were the puffer coats quilted with heart designs. The 25 elaborately festooned wedding dresses, the first in H&M’s history, were gone. Still in ample supply were inexplicably itchy wool trousers, T-shirts illustrated with trompe l’oeil ribbons and bows, and an array of black suede bow-tie pumps in teeny sizes.

The men’s clothes were in better supply. A rack of peacoats either had been recently restocked or was untouched. A young lanky man with a nose ring and a shock of black and red hair tried one on and told me that for $199 he would be better off buying a real peacoat, for about the same price, and it would fit better.

WITH its occasional designer presentations, H&M is an audacious representative of highbrow-meets-lowbrow culture. Under the flag of postmodernism, they have made several attempts to bring high fashion to the mass shopper with a budget. But in the end, do the tourists from Ireland benefit from owning a pink angora sweater with a bow at the neck just because it says Viktor & Rolf for H&M on the label? Does owning the sweater put them in the same place as a studiously slender fashionista, eyebrows angled toward the art-cum-clothing stalking down the runway to the tones of a Bruce Nauman sound piece? No. Does it sell clothes for the store? Yes.

The rest of H&M is a warehouse of both foibles and failure, both basic fashion and beautiful things with attractive price tags. On the first floor, I found attractive accessories for women, like a gold clutch purse accompanied by a small clutch to go inside ($12.90). On the second floor, men’s clothes range from successfully faux Brooks Brothers shirts — a cotton shirt at $29.90 is a great value — to plaid pants that even Borat wouldn’t wear.

I love the fact that there is a separate men’s jewelry section, featuring those big fake-diamond earrings that always suggest to me that the teenage boy wearing them stole them from his grandma in Coral Gables. But they think they look cool. So, whatever.

 By ALEX KUCZYNSKI

By Channaly Oum

Epoch Times Philadelphia Staff

WINTERTHUR, Del.—The route to costume design does not necessarily have to pass through fashion design, as one might assume.

Nancy Steiner, whose costume designer credits include “Little Miss Sunshine,” and “Lost in Translation,” said, “Fashion is a whole different thing; it’s keeping ahead of the times, being on the edge.” Many costume designers, such as herself, did not study fashion design in school. Teresa Binder-Westby (”Sixth Sense” and “Shadowboxer”) says she was simply “a vintage hound.”

John Bright, founder of English costume house Cosprop, and costume designer (”A Room With a View,” “Sense and Sensibility”), followed a four-year fashion course, but said, “[I] listened to what they had to say during the day, and at night I’d look at books.”

The costume designers spoke about their craft at a recent panel discussion, which took place earlier this month at the Winterthur Museum and was presented jointly with the Greater Philadelphia Film Office.

Most costume designers shop for the wardrobe they need. When they cannot find what they need, they find it more efficient to make it.

Often, multiples of outfits will be needed, for example a clean shirt, a shirt that’s somewhat dirty, and a really dirty shirt. Juliet Polcsa, costume designer for “The Sopranos” said she sometimes needed three or five multiples: “People get dirty, get blood on them … It depends on the action.”

The designers spoke about the roles of directors and actors in their work.

Juliet Polcsa explained that directors vary in their understanding of their craft. Some are very hands-off regarding costume design, to the point of being uninformed, while others are quite collaborative.

Steiner described director Sofia Coppola, “She knows exactly what she wants, which makes it easier and harder. She’s very specific.”

Sophie de Rakoff, an English costume designer based in Los Angeles who was the costume designer for “In Her Shoes,” said director Curtis Hanson “knew the characters inside out—not about what they look like, but who they are.”

Actors also often bring their own ideas and their own feelings about the clothes they are asked to wear.

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Fashion design is the practical art devoted to the design of garments, fashion wear, clothes in general and lifestyle accessories.

Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895) was the first fashion ‘designer’ and not merely a dressmaker. He was the first to put up a ‘fashion house’ in Paris, where many young designers trained under him and were taught the skill and creativity that Frederick had with fabric.

Modern fashion design is generally divided into two broad categories — ‘haute couture’ and ‘ready-to-wear.’ A designer’s haute-couture collection is intended for private clientele and is custom made, cut and sewn. For a fashion house to be eligible to be an official ‘haute couture’ house, a designer or company must register with the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a body of designers based in Paris and governed by the French Department of Fashion Industry that includes many international designers. An haute couture house is required to display their fashion collections twice a year with a minimum of 35 complete outfits in each show. They are often modeled on the catwalk and exhibited in private salons.

Ready-to-wear compilations are not custom made for private customers. They come in standard sizes, and this makes them more fitting for larger productions. Ready-to-wear collections can be further classified as designers’ collections and confection collections. Designer collections have a premium finish and an exclusive cut and design. The designer’s ready-to-wear collection is also modeled on catwalks all around the world. Confection collections are the clothes that we usually see in shops. These collections are designed by fashion artists. The brands that produce confection collections solely target the masses.

As fashion has become increasingly a large industry, fashion artists have also ventured into the designing of products that accompany clothes like perfume, handbags and foot wear.